Stage Three: A Ride to Kandanos – Crete’s Hidden Valleys and Mountain Villages

Our third day of cycling takes us further into Crete’s soul as we journey from the coast to the historic village of Kandanos and back. This stage, covering over 100 kilometers, blends scenic coastal views, mountain climbs, and the timeless charm of Crete’s countryside. It’s a day to test your endurance while immersing yourself in the island’s quieter, untouched corners.

Starting from the Geraniotis Hotel at 9:00 AM, we begin with a familiar path through Gerani and onward to Maleme, a village that carries echoes of Crete’s wartime history with its World War II landmarks and the nearby German War Cemetery. Here, the coastal breeze keeps spirits high as we ease into the ride.

As we approach Tavronitis, the sparkling sea remains in view, and the village’s tranquil streets offer a moment to appreciate Crete’s slower pace of life. Passing through Rapaniana and Skoutelonas, the route begins to turn inland, leaving the coastline behind and ushering us into the rolling hills and fertile plains of western Crete.

The villages of Minothiana, Gribiliana, and Spilia greet us next, each offering a glimpse of local life where traditional homes and small churches dot the landscape. In Drakona, a village perched amidst lush surroundings, we feel the first hints of the climb ahead. The route gradually ascends as we pass Episkopi, where the views begin to open up, offering sweeping vistas of olive-studded hillsides.

The challenge of the day intensifies as we reach Kamara and Armenochori, villages that seem to blend seamlessly with the rugged terrain. By the time we arrive at Topolia, the route begins to reward us with awe-inspiring views of the surrounding gorges and valleys. Cycling through Koutsomatathos and Strovles, the road is lined with wildflowers and rocky outcrops, making it one of the most scenic stretches of the stage.

Our destination, Kandanos, marks the midpoint of the ride. This historic village, renowned for its resilience during World War II, is a testament to Cretan determination and pride. At the Kandanos Feed Zone, we rest amidst a backdrop of stone-paved streets and traditional tavernas, soaking in the village’s storied atmosphere.

The return journey begins with a descent through the charming village of Floria, followed by Kakopetros and Bromonero, where the air is crisp and filled with the scents of pine and thyme. These mountain villages offer a peaceful rhythm, allowing you to savor the joy of cycling in Crete’s remote areas.

As the terrain flattens, we pass through Voukoles, a vibrant village with lively squares, and continue to Koulkouthiana and Neratzia, where time seems to stand still. With the coastline once again in view, we re-enter Tavronitis and cycle back to Maleme, retracing our steps to the Geraniotis Hotel.

Today’s ride is an exploration of contrasts—from the tranquil coast to the dramatic mountains, and from ancient villages to modern memories. With a total ascent of 811 meters, it’s a stage that combines physical challenge with rich rewards, deepening our connection to Crete’s landscapes and its enduring spirit.